Ballybunion Old Course: The Links That Made Tom Watson Weep
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There are great golf courses, and then there are courses that change the way people think about the game. Ballybunion Old Course, perched on the cliffs of County Kerry on Ireland's southwest coast, is one of those rare places.
It didn't get famous overnight. For most of its history, Ballybunion was a locals' course — beloved by the people of North Kerry but largely unknown to the rest of the world. That changed in 1981 when Tom Watson, already a three-time Open Championship winner and one of the biggest names in world golf, made a pilgrimage to this remote corner of Ireland and played the Old Course for the first time.
He called it one of the finest links courses he had ever seen. He came back. Again and again. He became the club's honorary life member. And with Watson's endorsement, Ballybunion went from a well-kept secret to a global destination.
What Makes Ballybunion Special
Let's be clear: Ballybunion isn't special because a famous golfer said nice things about it. It's special because the land it sits on is unlike anything else in golf.
The course occupies a narrow strip of duneland above the Atlantic, and several holes play along the cliff edge with the sea crashing below. The terrain is dramatic — enormous dunes that tower above the fairways, deep hollows between them, and greens nestled into natural amphitheaters of sand and wild grass.
The routing is what separates Ballybunion from other links. The front nine starts gently, lulling you into a false sense of comfort, before the seventh hole — a short par-4 that doglegs around the cliff — announces that playtime is over. From there, the course ramps up relentlessly.
The back nine is one of the most celebrated stretches of links golf anywhere. Holes eleven through fifteen run along the cliff tops with views that are genuinely distracting. The eleventh, a par-4 played along a narrow ridge with the beach on your right and a deep valley on your left, might be the most thrilling golf hole in Ireland. Every shot demands thought, and the wind ensures no two rounds are the same.
Playing Ballybunion: What to Expect
The course plays firm and fast. If you're used to target golf — fly it to the pin, spin it back — you'll need to adjust. The best scores at Ballybunion come from golfers who play along the ground, using the contours of the fairways rather than trying to overpower them.
The greens have been renovated in recent years, with restored bunkering and improved surfaces that make them among the truest-putting greens in Ireland. They're not overly fast, but the slopes are subtle and deceptive.
Wind is a constant companion. Even on a "calm" day, there's typically a steady breeze off the Atlantic. On a proper blow day, you can find yourself hitting 5-iron into a par-3 that's listed at 150 yards. That's not a typo. That's links golf.
Walking is the only option, and a caddie is strongly recommended. The local caddies at Ballybunion are some of the best in Ireland — they know every ridge, every bounce, and every break. They'll save you three to five shots if you listen to them, and they'll keep you entertained while doing it.
The Town and the Atmosphere
The town of Ballybunion is small — just a few streets, a handful of pubs, and a chip shop. It's not a resort town, and that's part of the charm. After your round, you walk across the road to one of the local pubs, and you'll find yourself sitting next to farmers, fishermen, and other golfers, all swapping stories.
The seafood is fresh and unfussy. The pints are cold. The welcome is warm in that specifically Irish way — genuine curiosity about where you're from and how you played, mixed with gentle ribbing about the shots you missed.
If you're staying in the area, Ballybunion is also a perfect base for playing other southwest courses. Tralee, designed by Arnold Palmer, is thirty minutes south. Killarney's courses are an hour east. And Waterville, one of the most remote and beautiful links in the country, is about ninety minutes down the coast.
Why It Belongs on Your List
Ballybunion consistently ranks in the top ten links courses in the world across every major ranking. It's the number one course in the Republic of Ireland, a position it has held for twenty straight years. Tiger Woods and Rory McIlroy chose to practice here together before The Open in 2022. That tells you everything.
But rankings and celebrity visits aren't the reason Ballybunion will stick with you. It's the feeling — that moment on the eleventh tee when the wind is pushing at your back, the Atlantic is turning white below, and you realize you're playing golf on the edge of Europe.
You'll miss some shots. You'll lose some balls. You'll walk off the eighteenth green with sore legs and a scorecard you might not want to frame.
And you'll already be thinking about when you can come back.
Ballybunion Old Course is a cornerstone of The Royal Links' Southwest Ireland packages. We secure tee times, arrange accommodation, and route your trip for maximum course variety. Explore our Southwest packages →